Color logic

Science

• Protons
• Positively charged particles found in the nucleus.
• Neutrons
•  Neutral particles found in the nucleus
• Electrons
• Negatively charged particles found in the nucleus around the nucleus and are involved in chemical reactions.

Anatomy:

• The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft and is made like armor.
• The cortex is the second or middle layer of the hair shaft.  The largest layer and holds the melanin.
• the module is the 3rd layer and is hallow.  Not everyone has a module.  For example, I don't, because I have very fine hair.

visual aids

Hair and Nails are made of Keratin

The shaft is above the skins surface

The follicle is a sac beneath the skins surface, that contains the root of the hair.

The pupil is a small cone-shaped artery at the base of the dermis where the hair and melanin are formed.  The papilla nourishes the root.

Pigments:

Eumelanin- black pigments

Pheumelanin- red and yellow pigments

Mixed Melanin- has Eumelanin and Pheumelanin

Black hair- High concentration of Eumelanin

Brown hair- mixed melanin or low Eumelanin

Red hair- Pheumelanin

Blonde hair- Very low concentration of Eumelanin

White hair- contains NO melanin at all.

Grey hair- is a mix of white hair and melanin containing hair.

Hair types:

Coarse hair:  large diameter, thick, and resistant to coloring

Medium hair: The average thickness and the baseline for processing time and color accuracy. 

Fine hair: (My hair) small and thin.  Quick reaction to coloring.

Color leveling system:

Dark -> light

1-> 10

blue black -> blonde

Color systems!

Non oxidative hair color- direct/semi permanent color

-> 4-6 weeks

->not mixed with peroxide

Advantages:

-> No running

-> No peroxide

Disadvantages:
->Inconsistent color fade
->may not color grey/white.


Oxidative color/perm color-
->permanent change
->peroxide
->cleanse with acid shampoo after, to keep the color.


Demi-
->perm or long lasting/semi perm color
->no amonia
->can not lift/ lighten color
-> fades in 6-8 weeks depending on hair
....with my hair, it's been longer than that.



A Lesson in Numbers...


letter=base color
number=level (light(est at 10) - Dark(est at 1))

A-Ash Shades
G-Gold shades
B-Beige shades
R-Red shades
OR- Orange shades
REMEMBER!  It's not always the easy, common sense things like R is Red.  Keep that in mind.  These are just an example.

number N + letter L = shades S

level 7+red base color= 7R


7 Steps of Hair Coloring-

1. Consultation 
1. hair condition
2. type of hair
3. active in sports
4. chemical services
5. like/dislike about their hair
6. needs/wants
2. Preform patch test (24-48 hours before)
3. strand test
1. back of the head is the most resistant.
2. you need to do the strand test in the back of the head, where it won't be noticed.
4. plan for color saturation
1. Deposit>lifting= 1>10
2. Lifting>deposit= 10>1
5. Complete client record/profile card of the color service

Double Processing-

Double Processing is pre-lightening hair for new color.

->This is very hard on hair, and it can fall out in your hands, if you're not careful.

PH:

->hair and skin is 4.5-5.5

->1-acid

->14- alkaline

Lightener: 10-20 volume

FACT-  Artificial color never lifts  artificial color.  BUT  Artificial color removes artificial color from skin.

Volume-

Volume is added to color to help it develop in the hair.

10 volume- Depositing and filling pigment

20 volume- Ideal for colors and bleaching (lifting)

30 volume- Best when used with peroxide

40 volume- higher degree of lightening (trying to go dark brown, to as light as possible)

HOME WORK FOR HAIR COLOR!

Look for the face color for hair coloring suggestions.

-> If they have pink skin go for something with cooler shades.

Formula:  Desired level x 2 minus natural color level= Level of hair color

->2D-N=L

->Clients natural color is level 5

desired color is level 7

7x2=14-5=9

Use a level 9 color.  You can move up/down one level depending on pigment, porosity, and the undertones.

->Natural level is 4, Desired level is 8

8x2=16-4=12

->Remember:  The pigment density and porosity of the hair will determine how much time the discoloration process will take.

SCIENCE CLASS!! :D