- Protons
- Positively charged particles found in the nucleus.
- Neutrons
- Neutral particles found in the nucleus
- Electrons
- Negatively charged particles found in the nucleus around the nucleus and are involved in chemical reactions.
Anatomy:
- The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft and is made like armor.
- The cortex is the second or middle layer of the hair shaft. The largest layer and holds the melanin.
- the module is the 3rd layer and is hallow. Not everyone has a module. For example, I don't, because I have very fine hair.
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Hair and Nails are made of Keratin
The shaft is above the skins surface
The follicle is a sac beneath the skins surface, that contains the root of the hair.
The pupil is a small cone-shaped artery at the base of the dermis where the hair and melanin are formed. The papilla nourishes the root.
Pigments:
Eumelanin- black pigments
Pheumelanin- red and yellow pigments
Mixed Melanin- has Eumelanin and Pheumelanin
Black hair- High concentration of Eumelanin
Brown hair- mixed melanin or low Eumelanin
Red hair- Pheumelanin
Blonde hair- Very low concentration of Eumelanin
White hair- contains NO melanin at all.
Grey hair- is a mix of white hair and melanin containing hair.
Hair types:
Coarse hair: large diameter, thick, and resistant to coloring
Medium hair: The average thickness and the baseline for processing time and color accuracy.
Fine hair: (My hair) small and thin. Quick reaction to coloring.
Color leveling system:
Dark -> light
1-> 10
blue black -> blonde
Color systems!
Non oxidative hair color- direct/semi permanent color
-> 4-6 weeks
->not mixed with peroxide
Advantages:
-> No running
-> No peroxide
Disadvantages:
->Inconsistent color fade
->may not color grey/white.
Oxidative color/perm color-
->permanent change
->peroxide
->cleanse with acid shampoo after, to keep the color.
Demi-
->perm or long lasting/semi perm color
->no amonia
->can not lift/ lighten color
-> fades in 6-8 weeks depending on hair
....with my hair, it's been longer than that.
A Lesson in Numbers...
letter=base color
number=level (light(est at 10) - Dark(est at 1))
A-Ash Shades
G-Gold shades
B-Beige shades
R-Red shades
OR- Orange shades
REMEMBER! It's not always the easy, common sense things like R is Red. Keep that in mind. These are just an example.
number N + letter L = shades S
level 7+red base color= 7R
7 Steps of Hair Coloring-
- Consultation
- hair condition
- type of hair
- active in sports
- chemical services
- like/dislike about their hair
- needs/wants
- Preform patch test (24-48 hours before)
- strand test
- back of the head is the most resistant.
- you need to do the strand test in the back of the head, where it won't be noticed.
- plan for color saturation
- Deposit>lifting= 1>10
- Lifting>deposit= 10>1
- Complete client record/profile card of the color service
Double Processing-
Double Processing is pre-lightening hair for new color.
->This is very hard on hair, and it can fall out in your hands, if you're not careful.
PH:
->hair and skin is 4.5-5.5
->1-acid
->14- alkaline
Lightener: 10-20 volume
FACT- Artificial color never lifts artificial color. BUT Artificial color removes artificial color from skin.
Volume-
Volume is added to color to help it develop in the hair.
10 volume- Depositing and filling pigment
20 volume- Ideal for colors and bleaching (lifting)
30 volume- Best when used with peroxide
40 volume- higher degree of lightening (trying to go dark brown, to as light as possible)
HOME WORK FOR HAIR COLOR!
Look for the face color for hair coloring suggestions.
-> If they have pink skin go for something with cooler shades.
Formula: Desired level x 2 minus natural color level= Level of hair color
->2D-N=L
->Clients natural color is level 5
desired color is level 7
7x2=14-5=9
Use a level 9 color. You can move up/down one level depending on pigment, porosity, and the undertones.
->Natural level is 4, Desired level is 8
8x2=16-4=12
->Remember: The pigment density and porosity of the hair will determine how much time the discoloration process will take.
SCIENCE CLASS!! :D
